Motorcycle carburetor- broken float post

I was performing some maintenance on my 1997 Suzuki Intruder 800 motorcycle.  I removed the carbs to boil and clean them out thoroughly.  I was simply attempting to dismantle the carburetor float pin on one of the carbs and accidentally snapped off one of posts on the front carburetor.

I was even taking precautions because there was some resistance....but it still happened.  

ughhhh!!!

The rear carb float pin slid out painlessly with just a little finesse.  The front carb on the other hand was the resistor.  The float pin was stuck in place.  The head of the pin was stuck really well to the side of the float post.  I attempted very carefully to move it through various venues.  All to no avail.  One little push--a little too hard and 'snap'.  "Now what do I do?" I was so frustrated at myself....but given the same scene again I'm not certain there would have been anything different that I could have done to prevent this.

I ended up locating this really superb fellow which was ever so helpful.  Jim of JMF Precision Welding offers Micro Laser Welding and Micro TIG welding.  His service saved my neck and he did an outstanding job of repairing the post. jmfmicroweld.com

Jim of JMF Precision Welding-- micro laser welding, micro TIG, fine welding repairs, small detailed work.  Microscopic welding of all ferrous and non-ferrous materials. 

2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee electrical issues

Are you having electrical issues with your 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee?  --lost power to door panel controls, power windows not operating, all interior lights are staying on, power door locks work sometimes and other times they don't?

More than likely its a broken, stranded wire feeding the driver's door control panel.  Open the door and pull the black rubber boot off the wiring harness inside the hinge area.  Check inside the rubber boot, looking for a broken stranded wire.  More than likely its going to be a black #12 AWG stranded wire.  The stranded wire choice the manufacturer decided to use - #12AWG with stiff strands, are too large and not flexible enough for the application.  Therefore not flexible enough to withstand continuous opening and closing of doors through the years.  The wire chosen by engineers should have been of a finer strand count, in my opinion, or altogether consisting of a different technology to get power to the door control.  But!!-- we all know the consumers are part of their experiments.  Just look at Arc Fault Protection circuit breakers in homes.

Anyway...just splice into with a fresh piece of #12 stranded wire using wirenuts there at the door side of the break.  Install a ziptie--tight, just below the wire nut to keep strain off the wirenut connection.  Then run the remainder of the wire through the rubber boot back into the car interior.  Make that second connection inside, just under the dash, in the vicinity of the hood opening lever.  This way there will only be one connection in the hinge area.  Less likely to become problematic again.  Wire tie it up, leaving a little slack in the wire to accommodate movement needed during the action of the door. 

Check your controls...guaranteed you'll have control power restored.  Cheers!! My headache has been your gain.