Gain Access to Interior Control Panel - Kenmore 90 series clothes dryer

To gain access to your Kenmore 90 series clothes dryer control panel, first remove two end caps on the end of the control panel.

STOP NOW and turn off circuit breaker feeding dryer if you have not already done so.

 
There is one screw on each end located underneath those end panel covers. Remove each. Two total.

After you have removed those two screws, pull control panel towards you until it stops, then flip it up towards the rear. 

 

 

 

Notice how the control panel will stand up on its own after flipping it over.  It is designed to remain in this position and will not break the unit, just look at the rear of the dryer panel and you will notice how it is designed and how this works, to hold it up in this position. 

By the way, this is where the manufacturer loves to hide your paper wiring schematics for your dryer.  They don't want you the consumer to know about it because 'we aren't competent, free thinking individuals which are able to work on our own things in life'.  They have it stowed there for the tech rep which shows up to hand you a bill which costs more than a new dryer would..  But now you know...they usually fold it up and tuck it up under the wiring harness.

Now you have access to service and/or replace a large proportion of your dryer's components.

chris 

Kenmore 90 Series, Dryer Push-Button Switch replacement

If your buzzer will not stop buzzing and you have to open your dryer door in order to stop the dryer from running, the culprit could be your push button start switch.

To test your dryer switch to determine if it is faulty:

1. just turn the breaker off serving the dryer
2. gain access to the switch
3. disconnect the switch wires
4. using an ohm meter, measure the resistance across the switch while depressing button and releasing it (should get a very low resistance reading or infinity reading -continuity beep- while depressing and read nothing when releasing)
5. if you receive a low resistance reading also when you release, the switch is welded in the 'on' position and in need of replacement

If this is not the issue, it could very well be your timer is in need of replacing.  See timer testing here
To remove the dryer switch simply (gain access to the interior components of the control panel.)

After testing, the switch can be removed by first removing the push button knob, simply grasp the knob and pull gently forward, it should slide of gently.

 

-now back to the backside of the control panel again-

Pickup on the little locking latch which is part of the switch and rotate the switch in order to remove.

 Continue to rotate approximately 90 degrees until switch stops turning,  doesn't matter if clockwise or counterclockwise

When the switch stops turning, pull it out of its square hole.  Replacement is simple:  Just insert and rotate until switch locks into place with the tab mentioned earlier.  Notice square cut-out below

 

Notice the squared portion of the switch that locks into the cutout designed for it.

 Now its just simply replacing the switch and closing the control panel.  This is an approximate 5-7 minute repair/replace.  That's it!

Buy chris a coffee -

Add a Reverse function to your Jet Midi Lathe VS1014 woodworking lathe

A brief video I created that encapsulates the ease in adding a reverse function to your Jet Midi Lathe with just a $4.50 double pole-double throw switch, a few terminals, butt splices and a few inches of 12-14 gauge wire.  Makes it really nice for some intricate detail work when using a drawbar secured mandrel.

90 Series Kenmore Dryer, Model 110 continues to run and will not stop, runs from dryer cycle to dryer cycle + timer switch test

A few days ago my dryer continued to buzz and would not stop buzzing until I opened the dryer door.  After shutting the door again, the buzzer began once again buzzing and the dryer continued running.  The timer switch ran from cycle to cycle and the dryer would not stop running.

My initial thoughts were that it was the push button 'on' switch perhaps stuck in the on position.  I turned the power off to the dryer and checked that switch and that was not the issue.

To test your dryer switch:

1. just turn the breaker off serving the dryer
2. gain access to the switch
3. disconnect the switch wires
4. using an ohm meter, measure the resistance across the switch while depressing button and releasing it (should get a very low resistance reading or infinity reading -continuity beep- while depressing and read nothing when releasing)
5. if you receive a low resistance reading also when you release, the switch is burnt or welded in the 'on' position 

this could create the issue that I mentioned above.

However if your switch checks good, then it more than likely is your timer switch.  One or more of the internal copper contacts have been burnt or fused (closed) thereby never opening the circuit, thus causing your dryer to continue to run from cycle to cycle.

To gain access to internal components of control panel.  

 Just pull out and upwards gently on the control panel. Flip the control panel all the way over, they are designed to flip over and hold themselves in the up position, so that you can access the internal components on the back of the front panel.

The timer switches have wiring harness that will allow you to remove 3 wires at a time and you will notice that the wire positions are marked on the back of the timer switch according to their appropriate color.  So there is no worries with placing a wire upon the wrong terminal.  I have included a 'rear of switch schematic' below in the event you have issue with colors.

For the part number of the dryer switch, you will find that number on a label affixed to the switch.  I believe for most 90 series, model 110 dryers it will be the 3976576 part number. But you can certainly double check on the affixed label.  Should be in bold font.

Here is the rear switch schematic below:

This chart will help you if you need to know what each timer switch colored wire feeds. 

~chris

If you found this helpful, please consider 

Cleaning out and replacing exhaust duct for clothes dryers.

After a few years of usage your clothes dryer exhaust duct will accumulate copious amounts of lint buildup within, which is a potential fire hazard and is often the reason why 'thermal overload' fuses blow so often in various clothes dryers. 

Large amounts of lint inside the duct work prevents proper exhaust flow from your dryer resulting in excess heat backup in the dryer housing.  Consolidated with the heat presently being generated by the dryer can contribute to significant temperature increase.  Thermal overload fuses are blown with temperatures over 309 degrees.

Your duct work should definitely be checked ever so often, perhaps even annually, and either cleaned out thoroughly or replaced. There are wands with cleaning head attachments sold at big box stores and online that you can screw together and make a long flexible shaft to clean the duct work interior.

If you do reinstall new duct work, make certain that you do not leave any sags in the line during the installation underneath your house.  Snug it tight and try to prevent it from sagging too much, the best you can.  Use either pipe hangers designed for this purpose or either lightweight webbing cut and stapled to the side of the floor joists.  Either of which can be used to prevent sagging in the line.

I would highly suggest the silver metallic foil type, which is essentially a coil encased in what appears to be a silver wrapper.  It is a great duct that will withstand the heat from the dryer and will last many years without breaking down and developing holes or tears.  This kind here below

  


















Even better still, is to have solid duct work installed in the straight runs and short pieces of this flexible duct to make the connections at your dryer and exterior vent.  This solid slick wall duct has a reduced potential to accumulating dust inside. 

 -chris

Kenmore Model 110 Clothes Dryer- 90 Series, no longer drying. Heating Element replacement.

It may seem, due to the mere number of posts associated with my Kenmore Clothes dryer that perhaps this dryer has become a family nuisance or they are either prone to break, neither of which is true.  I owned the dryer for well over 13+ years so the little maintenance that I have performed is nothing in comparison to years of service it has provided me.

Furthermore, you might draw the conclusion that this blog is 'appliance specific', which case it is not.  The blog was created as a means to share a vast array of various repairs and of various capacities.

Although, the dryer has provided me with some extracurricular activity a time or two it has served us well with very little issues.  Heck, its 13 years old and I have only had to work on it approximately three times.  I do not think that is too bad.  Hooray for Kenmore!  Wonder if they are even made like they used to be?  

At any rate, my Kenmore 90 Series- Model 110 clothes dryer has served me well.

I recently had an issue with the dryer not heating however.  I initially thought that it was perhaps one of the temperature sensors possibly having gone awry. The temperature sensors are typically the culprit when it comes to the loss of heating.  (see temperature sensor check and replacement)

Further investigation led to the discovery of a burned out segment of the heating element this time.  As I was preparing to remove the heating element housing I discovered a segment of circular wire lying inside of the element housing.  I without a doubt, knew the culprit was a burnt out element.  (how to remove heating element housing)

An Ohm meter reading through the coil (contact to contact) confirmed 'no continuity' between the two.  I knew then the segment of wire found, belonged to the element.  To test the coil for continuity or resistance (ohms) through the coil, after removing all other attached wires simply place one of your test probes on one of the spade terminals on the white porcelain block and the other test probe on the other spade terminal.  Doesn't matter which probe to which spade terminal.  We are just testing continuity, so either direction will work and would provide the same reading.

  So I prepared to remove the element from the housing.

Remove one screw near the element terminal strip.

After screw is removed, just grasp end of the shroud and with thumbs push on the terminal strip to dislodge the element from the housing.

Now you can see the area of issue- segment burnt out breaking continuity in the element....
"Heck, we all get tired!"

The heating element's item number is stamped upon the element, click on photo below for enlargement

 To discover how to gain access into your dryer's compartment to gain access to components.see here

- I purchased a new heating element from appliancezone.com and it arrived within 3 days...i think the entire cost of the repair was about $44 

 

Turned the breaker back on and tested the dryer...good to go!  Now I just have about 4 loads of clothes to wash and dry--just waiting for me.  ughhh!

To see how to gain access and remove your heating element