Saturday, October 15, 2011

Kenmore 90 Series, Model 110 Clothes Dryer Runs But Has Stopped Heating and drying clothes - Quick How To repair

 

Kenmore 90 Series Clothes Dryer Heating safety sensors test and replacement procedures for Models 110.66901692 and Models 110.66902692

Kenmore 90 series, Model 110 clothes dryer stopped drying clothes
Heavy Duty, Super Capacity Plus Kenmore clothes dryer has stopped drying clothes

Maybe your dryer will run but its not drying clothes any longer. 

The following is a picture tutorial / technical manual, to aid you (the homeowner) in repairing your clothes dryer that will not heat up.

If your dryer has stopped running mid-cycle or runs but has stopped heating, it is more than likely a faulty safety sensor.  Safety sensors are designed to prevent potential house fires from a clothes dryer which would otherwise overheat or start a fire.  (see fire hazard due to dust accumulation and how safety sensors SAVED me)  that would potentially overheat.  They are great when they are working properly but when it will no longer dry your clothes after an hour cycle, it has a way of leaving you a little disheartened and left wondering...most of the time- thinking!  Thinking of green ($$). 

These safety sensors are a normally-closed electrical switch, which under normal conditions keep the circuit closed at all times to allow the free flow of electrical current, thereby allowing the heating element to heat up.  The interior contacts inside this switch would normally only open (disengage contact) only if the dryer's heating element were to reach some 'factory set' heat range that is considered too high.  At this point the switch opens and disrupts the electrical circuit and the dryer's heating element stops heating immediately.

As it is with most mechanical applications after some time, these safety sensor switches become faulty, thus can create the situation your facing.  The electrical flow serving your heating element has been disrupted but not the motor's electrical needs, thus the reason your dryer is running but not heating.

Before you get too involved, ensure you have located the correct breaker in your electrical panel for your clothes dryer and turn it OFF.   The breaker should have been identified by the electrician on the inside of the panel's cover.  A typical clothes dryer breaker should be a double pole, 30 amp breaker.  Just look for 30 on the breaker's handle.  If in doubt, please just turn all of them off in the panel. 

Not certain or don't want to go that route, just unplug your dryer--Now that's a simple fix. 

After I wired my home I placed appropriate stickers on the panel's breakers to aid my wife and myself in locating the correct ones later on.  - great suggestion. So turn off that 30 amp dryer breaker.

Tools needed:  Stiff putty knife
                       1/4" nut driver
                       Electrical Volt meter
Next remove your dryer's lower cabinet cover located directly underneath your dryer's door to gain entry to your dryer's mechanical components.
How to remove my clothes dryer's compartment panel- (located underneath dryer door)

The heating element and the safety sensors that need to be tested are on the side of this housing where the arrow is pointed.
 
 
 Disconnect the little white hose from the lint filtration housing to gain entry to the heating element.  Disconnect the hose from the upper connection as shown in photos above and simply bend it easily out of the way.  I did not take the entire white plastic hose off, I just disconnected it from the junction as seen in the photo and then bent it easily behind the housing to the left. 

 Remove the front cover from the heating element housing.
 Remove these two screws from the element housing's base.
Make sure you have your dryer's electrical breaker off or either the dryer unplugged before reaching in to take these electrical leads off of the housing.  There are two hot wires serving this heating element that come from the wiring harness (collection of wires) from the central portion of the dryer.  One of these wires is attached to the front terminal block of the heating element (white block in pic below).  The second wire is attached to the rearmost sensor (thermal overload sensor).  If you look really close, all of the other wires are simply jumper wires (jumping from one sensor to the next), thus there are only two wires serving this element.  Each of these two wires have 120 volts and when applied to the coil, create 240 volts of electricity at the coil.

Note:  These wires have a slight bend in them which depicts their frontal or rear locations which will aid you when reconnecting them after reinstalling the element.
 After the wires are disconnected grasp the element housing and twist gently to remove.

 pull straight out
Portion of dryer shown where the rear of the element housing will seat when reinstalling it.
Revealing the location of the leads on the sensors. You cannot accidentally mix the wires up on the sensors because the sensors are just a set of contacts and the electricity will flow through them either way the wires are connected.  When reconnecting wires after reinstalling heating element, see picture below for explanation and proper attachment.


 Notice the heating element's terminals here (picture above), we want to test the continuity and resistance through the element's coils to factor out whether or not this heating element is the origin of the issue with the dryer not heating and no longer drying clothes.  With your volt meter set to the Ohms, you should get a reading somewhere between 7 -12 ohms.
 This is the Ohm setting on an electrical meter.
With the volt meter set to the Ohms setting, touch one of your test leads to one terminal of the heating element and the other test lead to the other terminal.  Doesn't matter which test lead goes to which terminal. We are testing continuity and resistance, not electrical voltage so the arrangements of the leads does not matter.  We are simply trying to determine that the wired coils are still intact and that electrical energy can flow from one point (terminal) to the other point (terminal) via the wire.  The electrical reading is done by the volt meter sending a very small minute voltage through the wire via the volt meter's battery.
My measured 10.2 ohms so i am within the range.  So my heating element is not the origin of the problem.  If you do not receive any resistance measurement or continuity through the coil, you may have a bad heating element.  (replacement of heating element post)

 Next remove the thermostat from the side of the element's housing.  Check for an Ohm reading across both of the terminal contacts, once again it does not matter which lead you touch to which terminal.  I received a very low .1 percent of an Ohm, meaning their is almost perfect continuity across the interior contacts.  So this is not my problem either.  If you do not receive an ohm reading it means that your thermostat is faulty.



The contacts in this thermostat open when the temperature inside the element housing reaches around 250 degrees.  During normal operation this thermostat will open and close dependent upon that temp.  However, this thermostat will always be closed at room temperature, so you should receive an ohm reading, if nothing then your thermostat is faulty.  Apparently the interior contacts are 'burnt open', so this would be your culprit.

Next, check the heat limit cutoff fuse by removing it and checking it for continuity through the contacts.

This is a normally closed switch meaning that the contacts are always closed unless it senses too much heat inside the dryer.  So you should receive an ohm reading of some value, If you receive no ohm reading than the contacts are burnt out and are no longer 'closed' and thus are no longer touching therefore the switch is faulty.  These limit fuses are rated to open at approximately 390 degrees.  They are a 'one time' fuse, if you receive no ohm reading then you must replace.
see i received no reading, no numerical value registered, thus i knew this was the culprit of my dryer not heating anymore.
The Culprit.









You can easily test to confirm that the faulty switch in hand is indeed the origin of the issue by reinstalling the dryer element back into its original place. 
  1. Install heating element housing and put screws into their proper place.  
  2. Place the hot wire feed on the element terminal 
  3. place the lead that you removed off of the rear cutoff switch to the other terminal on the element
  4. You are bypassing the safety sensors just for a moment to verify that the dryer will heat up when these sensors are bypassed
  5. do you recall that i mentioned that the heating element terminals were different sizes so that one could not purposely bypass the sensors by installing the wires in this manner?   Also remember that my thermostat switch is in good condition so I can use this in the test.
  6. I just connected the return hot to the thermostat, then took the thermostat's short lead to my element terminal.  ah-ha, it fit, now i am just feeding through the element and the thermostat, bypassing the faulty cutoff sensor in the rear
  7. Yep, the element heated up..confirming that the sensor in hand is the culprit
 I ordered two more parts from appliancezone.com. I replaced the thermostat for any future just in case and while i was inside the dryer and the thermal cut off switch.  The part number for the Thermostat for a Kenmore 90 series 110 model dryer such as i have is 3390291 and the thermal cut off switch's part number is 3398671.
 
 remember to place wire jumpers back into their appropriate positions before installing the element with the new sensors in place back into the dryer.  Notice the free terminal on the coil terminal block and the cut off switch.  This is where the two wires inside the dryer connect to.
 make sure the element housing lines up with and installs into the circular cutout it was removed from in the rear of the dryer

 

 reinstall housing screws
reinstall element cover

 After hot wires are back into place, turn breaker back on and test dryer to ensure the element will heat up. Viola! back in business.  All for about $16.00 and $6.95 of that was shipping.


Slip front cabinet panel cover back onto the little black retainers and snap upper portion into place. You do not need any tools to do this part.

Please note:  sometimes the reason your 'thermal overload' fuse was opened (blown) in the first place may be directly linked to decreased exhaust flow resulting in a back-up of excess heat inside the dryer housing. (see here for further regarding cleaning out and replacing your air duct) 

It takes a lot of work to compose and write this blog for individuals to use for their gain when dealing with issues such as this, so if you would like, please feel free to donate.

 Some more information to help you find the correct Hi-Limit and Thermal Cut-Off fuse for your Kenmore Dryer 110.  

 



 

 Ask Chris a question

What if you just replaced a sensor a week or two ago and now they are blown or gone faulty again?   

 

~chris

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110 comments:

  1. ceLMay 7, 2012 at 8:11 PM

    OMG THANK YOU SO MUCH! I had the same issue with my dryer and your article allowed me to save money and perform this fix myself. I'm really grateful for the information on the wiring because I had completely forgot where the wires went after I had it all pulled out. Thank you!!!

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  2. Hydraulic PumpsJune 10, 2012 at 10:20 PM

    Excellent instructions sir!!!! BIG HELP!!!

    ReplyDelete
  3. UnknownSeptember 17, 2012 at 8:38 PM

    This information was a huge help. My dryer has been having issues on and off for a few months now and with this info we're able to get a new thermal cutoff switch and hopefully by tomorrow my fiancée will have my dryer back up and running so I can finish our laundry! Thank you

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisSeptember 18, 2012 at 5:23 AM

      Glad it helped you out Beth, take care. Chris

      Delete
  4. AnonymousSeptember 22, 2012 at 2:32 PM

    I cannot tell you how good I feel about myself right now!! This information gave me the tools I needed to fix my own dryer! 8-yrs divorced - single mom. AMAZING feeling to be able to do this. Thank you so much!! I was able to test, root cause and replace the heating element. $13 ohm meter + $40 part. HUGE boost to self-confidence.
    many thanks!
    Jennifer K.
    Overland Park, KS

    ReplyDelete
  5. AnonymousSeptember 28, 2012 at 6:58 PM

    Thank you for your detailed review. Our family was worried that we would have to end up replacing the dryer and the washer as a result of the dryer stopping up. I am anything but a handy person and the simple instructions allowed me to definitely determine that our heating element was bad. Easily ordered for a grand total of $30 at Amazon along with new thermostat and switch for good measure! We are extremely tight on money and I cannot tell you how much good your review has done us; the thought of cutting our food budget any more in order to get a new dryer would have killed us off! God bless.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisSeptember 28, 2012 at 8:06 PM

      I am so glad that it helped you guys out, thanks so much for emailing me to inform me of the usefulness of my labors.

      Take care, Chris

      Delete
  6. AnonymousJanuary 26, 2013 at 4:30 PM

    Hi Chris,

    Thank you so-so much for your DIY article on replacement of the thermostat and thermal cutoff switches/fuses in a Kenmore series 90, Model 110 dryer. It was a clear and concise, ultra-detailed and extremely helpful article.

    We've used the information you shared in that article now on several occasions to repair our dryer, but we continue to have problems so I thought I'd write in hopes of getting your opinion on something. We've replaced the thermostat and thermal cutoff switches a total of 4-5 times in just the past few months, and the heater will begin working again, but within a matter of a few short days or weeks, the heating element will quit on us again, and each time, its the thermal cutoff switch that fails. I replaced the thermostat and thermal cutoff just two-weeks ago as a kit (meaning I replaced them both at the same time so that they would be pair-matched), and I double-checked them both with a multimeter before installation to make sure that they were both functional (i.e., that they each had continuity or a closed circuit across their respective terminals with slight readings of 0.0-0.2 ohms). I also made absolutely certain that the wires were all re-connected in the correct orientation and that the exhaust vent to the outside of the garage was completely unobstructed.

    Then, when I had completed all of those steps, it fired right-up on each occasion, ran perfectly fine, with normal to moderate levels of heat as expected (i.e., it wasn't too hot or anything), and it hummed along that way perfectly fine for 15-20 consecutive loads of clothes without incident (lasting 2-3 weeks typically), and then suddenly, yesterday, I went out into the garage and without warning, it had quit heating yet again (i.e., a load of wet towels that had been tumbling for 30-minutes remained cold and wet). So I let the dryer sit overnight, and it remains non-functional (no heat) again this morning. In other words, just like every other time in the past few months, the clothes bin inside rotates or tumbles as it should, but there is no heat, and each time I remove the heater element housing, I find that once again, the thermal cutoff switch is the culprit (i.e., the thermostat will read just fine (closed circuit at 0.0-0.1 ohms), and the heater element reads just fine (10-12 ohms). but I'll get an 'infinite' or open circuit reading on the multimeter for the thermal cutoff).

    So, I thought I'd write to you and ask . . . I don't fundamentally understand the functional difference between a thermostat and a thermal cutoff switch in such a circuit (i.e., they both would seem to have the very same function?), but given the fact that this is the 4th or 5th straight thermal cutoff switch that has failed on us, and given the fact that the wires are all connected properly and that there's no obstruction in the exhaust vent, is there ANY other electrical component that could be faulty in this situation? For example, is there a voltage regulator or something that could be allowing too much voltage to pass through to the thermostat and/or thermal cutoff switch? I just don't know what to do next?

    Thanks for your assistance.
    Joe

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  7. ChrisJanuary 28, 2013 at 12:16 AM

    1)check your exhaust duct thoroughly, too much lint buildup will definitely create extra heat buildup inside the cabinet creating the condition you are experiencing as well. Make sure to check the vent cap and make sure that the valve closure is not locked in the closed position thereby preventing breathing of the exhaust.

    2) the cold garage ambient air temperature may have something to do with the sensors faulting, "they are sitting inside a cold environment and within a few minutes are experiencing a significant temp change" The newer sensors may just have extremely thin contact strips and such that simply respond differently to this quick 'significant' temp change

    3)your fan may have gone bad and is simply not drawing the air out of the dryer tub and through the duct work, thus allowing hotter internal duct temps, and kicking the temperature sensors open

    chris

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  8. AnonymousMay 12, 2013 at 12:43 PM

    Thanks for the DIY article. Very clear instructions.
    Here is $5 for your time.
    Cliff

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisMay 19, 2013 at 2:47 AM

      Thanks Cliff, received your donation...purchased me some garden seeds with those monies..lol

      Thanks a million, Chris

      Delete
  9. AnonymousMay 19, 2013 at 1:36 AM

    Hey Chris. Excellent article. Well documented with the right photos in the right place. Even better, was your choice of words to get the message across clearly with accurate descriptions of critical key facts about wire placement and bypassing the high limit cut off switch to temporarily verify diagnosis of it's failure. my 90 series MOD. 110. 96592200-65922. SER# MD1602213 KENMORE Extra capacity dryer just started not heating on all temp settings. I cheated the temp control knob with an ohmeter in all positions. I got OL on all positions. I also got 125 volts to the top wire and .3 volts to the bottom wire in all temp settings. I took the switch apart and found that one of the terminals had broken free of the reohstat. I tried to solder it back but the pc board would not allow the solder to flow. It just beaded up.
    Then I stumbled upon your site. Using your technique,I was able to determine that I also have a high temp limiter fuse that tested OL as well. Ad that to the parts list. I just wonder if my thermostat coupled with about 30% blockage in the exhaust ductwork is letting my heating element get the temperature too high? I have cleaned all the lint and blockage from the fan to the exit duct on the outside wall. There is a straight shot about 16 inches long from dryer vent to exit duct.
    We have noticed the dryer running a little hot lately, now this problem. It has worked flawlessly for 15 years or more. I'm thinking about changing the thermostat as well. When I had it off to check continuity, it rattled with a light shake. I was thinking it is letting the heating element get too hot and blew the high temp limiter fuse. Can you tell me if I'm on the right track? Or is there something I'm missing? Thanks

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    Replies
    1. ChrisMay 19, 2013 at 2:46 AM

      Thanks for the accolades, I do appreciate your feedback and comment.

      It sounds like you are on the right track. Say you,"shook the thermostat heard a slight rattle", your thermostat could have weak spring internally that is preventing the proper opening of the contacts when sensor is satisfied, thus allowing it to heat beyond the factory setting. I would say if it has been undergoing cycles for over 15+ years, that could very well be the issue being your dryer exhaust duct has been cleaned out thoroughly..

      and yes, clogged duct work will without a doubt create higher heating cycles, prevents proper breathing and eventually kicks the high limit thermal cutoff fuse

      Delete
  10. AnonymousJune 10, 2013 at 4:28 PM

    when you unplug the 2 wires off the heating element. they can plug back in on either terminal,, correct?

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    Replies
    1. ChrisJune 10, 2013 at 4:49 PM

      Yes, it does not matter. however, oft times one terminal is slightly larger than the other which might prevent you from doing so with the slightly different size stakons or female spade terminals. But if not...yes, you can plug them back on 'either terminal'

      Delete
  11. AnonymousJuly 15, 2013 at 5:17 PM

    I have replaced the safety switch twice. First time it ran one cycle and second time it worked for about 2 weeks. How can I troubleshoot what might be causing the switch to blow?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisJuly 15, 2013 at 6:51 PM

      check exhaust air flow, vaccuum out duct output at rear of dryer and ensure your entire exhaust ductwork to the exterior of your dwelling is clear, allowing the dryer to breathe freely. Clogged filtration and duct will create heat backup thereby popping thermal overloads. Also check your moisture heat sensors in the dryer's filter housing section, wipe them clean with some isopropyl alcohol, denatured alcohol or dielectric electrical contact spray with cotton cloth.

      Delete
  12. UnknownJuly 24, 2013 at 8:10 AM

    HEY CHRIS,
    Where does the yellow wire plug into. Came unplugged somehow .

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisJuly 24, 2013 at 12:21 PM

      Phillip would you mind emailing me via the contact form provided here on the blog at Contact Chris. This way I would have your email address and be able to respond accordingly. I do not have your email address provided when posting to article.

      Provide more details in regards to what wire you are making reference to, its location.

      Thanks, Chris

      Delete
  13. PeterAugust 30, 2013 at 8:51 PM

    This is really a good walk through of how to fix the heater. Both fuses on mine had blown, but the element was fine.

    Two comments:

    (1) when replacing the heating assembly, there is a metal tab on the assembly ... This gets tucked *inside* the circular cutout at the rear of the dryer.

    (2) it helps to label all the wires before disconnecting them at the outset

    Great step by step info!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisAugust 30, 2013 at 9:54 PM

      Peter, yes in response to (1): yes that tab does indeed fit up into a little pocket at the back of the dryer, located at about 12 o'clock, above the exhaust hole

      (2) Yes that would help, sorry I didn't mention it. I simply failed to suggest that aspect, simply did not think about it. Having worked as a electrician in the past for several years consolidated with working on parts, machinery, equipment all of my life in various capacities, I guess I took for granted that everyone cannot simply recall the wires locations. I think most of that is simply due to the fact, the few wires just 'startle' them a little and we might over complicate matters therefore confusing the wires later on....

      Just because its something new...Like my Physics courses in college, OH MY GOD!!!!! so, so, so got my mind bent around the axle so tight, I would forget what step to execute next...crazy.

      but yes, I guess I should suggest that, thanks, Chris

      Delete
  14. napletonSeptember 25, 2013 at 7:40 AM

    kenmore model110.62972100 stops running after the push to start button is released

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    Replies
    1. ChrisSeptember 25, 2013 at 5:14 PM

      have you checked the continuity across the contacts of the switch with the continuity beep of a volt/amp meter or you could just use an ohm meter and if you get close to a zero reading than your continuity is good. Next, if there is nothing wrong with the switch you could have lost the ground loop or either one of the hot legs of the 240 volts either at your outlet behind the dryer or at the double pole circuit breaker.

      Not uncommon after some age for some contacts to burn 'open' and therefore you lose one of your hots. Also, do not neglect junction boxes underneath the residence or in the attic that could have an open joint.

      chris

      Delete
    2. ChrisSeptember 25, 2013 at 5:15 PM

      if your ohm reading is close to zero, (this signifies that your switch is good within)

      Delete
  15. UnknownSeptember 27, 2013 at 4:43 PM

    Chris,

    Thank you so very much. You instruction were so easy to follow. I just ordered a new safety switch. I'll have my drier repaired for $20. How many people throw a drier away for lack of a $20 part.

    Wranglerstar

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    Replies
    1. ChrisSeptember 27, 2013 at 7:40 PM

      Wrangler, yeah brother you are welcome. I appreciate your expressed appreciation, its good to know that others are benefiting. There are reasons the big wigs do not offer schematic breakdowns along with their equipment, they apparently would rather us trash and "buy new". This is just one small way that I am able to help people keep the money that they work so hard for. -chris

      Delete
  16. DanOctober 2, 2013 at 6:44 AM

    Chris,
    Great work but in my case, didn't go far enough. I have the same problem (motor runs but no heat) but the thermostats and heating element mentioned in your instructions checked out fine. My dryer has two more thermostats and a fuse located on the top of the blower unit just to the left of the heating element. I tested them with an ohm meter and found extremely high resistance (7K) across the inner leads on a 4-pin thermostat. Shouldn't that read ~0 ohms?
    Thanks for your assistance. This was the best explanation for debugging this problem I've come across on the 'net.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisOctober 2, 2013 at 7:52 AM

      Dan, not quite sure about this, sounds like you are reading across a coil located inside that component you are mentioning, that might be some form of relay. But then again, there could potentially be resistors within which would account for such a higher ohm reading. Wish I could help you out but I'm just not familiar with such a setup as you have. Chris

      Delete
  17. AnonymousOctober 12, 2013 at 5:03 PM

    I have the same problem as Napleton September 25, Stops running after Start button is release, Both legs are hot as far as I could trace into machine, If I hold the Start button in it will run until it trips some breaker in machine & burnt smell.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisOctober 13, 2013 at 2:17 PM

      sounds like you have a short inside the motor perhaps thus the reason for the burnt smell or either a relay inside the control panel going bad

      Delete
  18. UnknownNovember 1, 2013 at 2:20 PM

    THANK YOU for your clear detailed instructions. I think that we have found the problem and hopefully the piece that I bought today will work and I can get back to doing laundry!!
    Thank you so much!!!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisNovember 1, 2013 at 2:44 PM

      Thanks so much for your appreciation. I'm glad you found it helpful.

      Delete
  19. UnknownNovember 25, 2013 at 6:21 PM

    Big help in trouble shooting my dryer, thank you very much.

    ReplyDelete
  20. SteveNovember 28, 2013 at 11:14 AM

    Chris,

    What would i need to do if the tub isnt turning anymore. Motor still running, dryer is still heating. The tub doesnt turn though.

    ReplyDelete
  21. NHhomemomDecember 9, 2013 at 1:08 PM

    I just replace my heating element in my Kenmore dryer after it was not heating. It still has no heat. I am beyond frustrated. All fuses have continuity. What else could it be?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisDecember 30, 2013 at 3:01 AM

      do you have 240 volts line to line at your electrical outlet behind the dryer, make certain first off that you have not lost one of your 120 volt legs from an open connection perhaps in a junction box in crawlspace or in attic

      Delete
  22. UnknownDecember 14, 2013 at 9:30 AM

    You are a GOD send, I am that Girl, however surprised myself this time...and saved over 135.00 dollars. ordered the part off of Amazon for a total of 21 dollars and some change, local supplier wanted 56.00 just for the part plus installation. Well thanks to you I Gotter Done,,.,.....Keep helping people and you will continue to be blessed, as you were a blessing to me.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisDecember 30, 2013 at 3:02 AM

      Thanks for the accolades. Looking for my bless-ed ship to come in

      Delete
  23. AnonymousDecember 30, 2013 at 6:56 PM

    Great page. Hlped me easily diagnoe the issue with the Thermal cut-off switch and replace for cheap money.

    ReplyDelete
  24. AnonymousFebruary 6, 2014 at 11:52 AM

    Agree with all the previous comments...great page, easy to follow...bravo to you for helping people out this way!

    ReplyDelete
  25. AnonymousFebruary 8, 2014 at 5:11 PM

    Thank you so much, Chris! Your instructions helped me replace the fuse easily...and save a ton of money! Total cost to me was less than $10 for the parts via ebay plus a donation to you for your information. Keep up the great work, brother!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisFebruary 8, 2014 at 7:46 PM

      Thank you very much, glad it helped you and thanks a million for your thoughtfulness regarding the donation

      Delete
  26. UnknownMarch 3, 2014 at 7:35 PM

    I read where the wire burning off at the terminal to the element can be from the terminal itself. What is the rating and where do you get them. Do you crimp them just like any other terminal.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisMarch 3, 2014 at 7:55 PM

      Yeah, there could have been a slight bend in the wire right at the crimp or the terminal may not have been crimped good the first time. Over the years, current draw and expansion and contraction of both copper wire and terminal composition, caused it to work lose enough that the continuity was hindered, thus creating the burnt out, exploded end.

      Yes, I just crimp new ones own using Stakon pliers. any good quality crimp that are sold for electrical connections will suffice.

      Delete
  27. AnonymousMarch 6, 2014 at 1:24 AM

    Hi Chris. I have a Kenmore dryer model 110-72602101. I have the same problem. Dryer runs, no heat. The picture of the front panel on your dryer looks identical to mine except mine doesn't say 90 series. Will I be able to pretty much follow your instructions to try to trouble shoot my dryer? I'm desperate to get mine fixed. I'm the mother of 11 month old twin boys and we have alot of laundry, always. Your help is much appreciated.
    Sarah

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    Replies
    1. ChrisMarch 6, 2014 at 9:46 AM

      Yes you should Sarah, the internal components on most of the model 110s should be very similar. The overall troubleshoot and dismantle should be even if the exact part numbers are different. -chris

      Delete
  28. AnonymousApril 3, 2014 at 12:40 AM

    Thanks a lot for the step-by-step. It wasn't identical to my model, but it was close enough. Very clear and concise, I learned everything I needed to know in about 5mins and knocked it out.

    Much appreciated sir!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisApril 3, 2014 at 1:00 AM

      You are very much welcome.

      If you are gleaning from the work, don't forget to share some love and donate to the cause. See donate button above. just saying

      Delete
  29. Mr. T.J.April 3, 2014 at 12:51 PM

    Hi,
    We have a Kenmore 110.646122000. It had been working OK, but then it would run for about 10 minutes then stop. No tumbling, no heating, nothing. Now it won't run at all and I'm not sure where to start. I tried holding down the starter button and nothing happens. I'm not sure how to access the wires that go to the door cutoff switch. Any thoughts? I've read the other comments and hope that we can draw on your expertise.
    Thanks for making a good page that many can benefit from!

    ReplyDelete
  30. AnonymousApril 20, 2014 at 1:46 PM

    If after replacing the safety sensor it fails again within a week what would you recommend? Write it off as a bad part and try again?

    ReplyDelete
  31. ChrisApril 20, 2014 at 7:08 PM

    I have had like issue myself. I think that those sensors are 'all' just made cheaply. Apparently the probabilities of getting one that slipped through quality control measures is somewhat high because I have replaced a couple that did likewise but after replacement a second time, I have not had issues in years.

    ReplyDelete
  32. AnonymousApril 23, 2014 at 9:18 PM

    Thanks for the detailed steps!

    ReplyDelete
  33. JCIMay 23, 2014 at 2:56 PM

    Hello, as shown in your 5th picture from the top (with the yellow arrow), my heating element housing is making a loud rattle/vibration. Heating element works just fine. I can make the rattle/loud vibrating stop if I push in a bit on the flimsy metal housing piece shown with the yellow arrow in picture #5, but the rattle resumes 5 minutes later. Any ideas/directions that you can share? :) Thanks in advance! :) Kindest regards, JCI

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisMay 23, 2014 at 5:10 PM

      It sounds like you just need to replace the installation screw of holding that shield in place with a larger sheet metal screw. The hole is probably just elongated and a little too large for the present screw.

      Delete
  34. AnonymousMay 31, 2014 at 5:01 PM

    Great write up. Gave me the confidence to undertake the diagnosis and repair myself. Dryer is producing heat again! I have made a small donation. Thanks.

    ReplyDelete
  35. anne marieAugust 12, 2014 at 12:31 AM

    Hi Chris. Today I went to dry a load of clothes and when I came back to check them after 20 minutes I noticed the timer had not progressed. The fuse at the breaker was tripped off. I reset the fuse and then started the dryer again. It proceeded to heat up to the point that the cabinet was almost too hot to touch and then blew the breaker again. It did this on all heat settings except air dry. Outside vent has air blowing out at same intensity as normal and is unblocked. Any ideas as to cause?? Thanks for your time.

    ReplyDelete
  36. ChrisAugust 12, 2014 at 12:35 AM

    Sounds like your dryer duct work is partially clogged and not breathing properly. I know, you say, you have good air flow but trust me if you have not changed it out in years...it is FULL of lint. Plus, sounds like you might could have a relay or wire that is shorting to ground, thus tripping the breaker. Would take some electrical troubleshooting.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. anne marieAugust 12, 2014 at 1:04 AM

      Oh, and I should mention....my dryer sits about 18 inches from the exterior of the building and the duct from back of dryer to outside is only 2 ft long.

      Delete
  37. anne marieAugust 12, 2014 at 12:49 AM

    I just bought the set last fall from a used appliance store and then about 8 weeks ago moved and had it cleaned and reinstalled at my new residence. Is there interior duct work that could be cleaned? I took off the flex pipe at the back and ran it ten minutes ago and the air blows hard....

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisAugust 12, 2014 at 4:58 AM

      Yes, you should be able to just look up inside the interior pipe of the dryer once you have that flexible pipe removed and could vacuum out accordingly.

      I've reread your original posting. It seems like your thermostat located on either the dryer heating element housing or the moisture temp sensor located near the filter housing underneath the door have been tampered with by the prior owner and possibly 'bypassed'. You say you purchased the set used. Perhaps the past owner had issues with the dryer not running because one of the before-mentioned had blown.

      Well, so they just decided to bypass the sensor to have the dryer run again. Because one or both of those sensors are safety sensors and should open the circuit, thus killing power to your heating element. This should occur and not trip your circuit breaker in your electrical panel. The fact that you can flip your 'tripped' electrical circuit breaker back on and the dryer heat up again is telling me those sensors are defective or have been tampered with or bypassed.

      NOW, It seems like the original issue was the thermostat was stuck. I believe the pickup for this is the metallic strip inside the dryer drum that is near the door, close to the exhaust air grille. Follow those wires serving that to the thermostat itself and ohm out with a volt-amp-ohm meter to ensure you have appropriate continuity.

      I cannot advise really beyond this point without troubleshooting your particular dryer model with an electrical meter..

      Please reread this post here, it might help you locate those before-mentioned sensors.

      Also, read the 'Please READ!' tab at the top of the page

      Thank you, Chris

      Delete
  38. AnonymousSeptember 6, 2014 at 11:17 PM

    Thanks so much for the detailed information. And for directing me to Appliancezone.com. I ordered the part frome them for $7.50. The same part on the Sears website was around $33.00! And your pictures and instructions walked me right through everything. Many, many thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. UnknownSeptember 14, 2014 at 10:15 PM

      Glad you were able to get your dryer running again. You are welcome.

      Delete
  39. honey brook paOctober 22, 2014 at 10:15 PM

    Chris, wanted to comment on a no heat problem. I have a kenmoore elite , model 110.63932101. My son and I found that not only did a thermistor burn out, but we still had no heat. I did some more research and found another solution. Swap around the heat relay and motor relay, as they are the same part. Low and behold this single mom and her I want to see how it works 22 year old son got it to work. Just wanted to pass this on. So did not have the extra cash for a repair spc to fix it. While your dryer is all apart might as well clean out the fluff. Now I know why fires are caused by dryers.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisOctober 23, 2014 at 12:49 AM

      Thanks for sharing. iI always enjoy receiving and reading feedback such as this. Thanks for taking the time to write the comment. I am so glad you were able to get your dryer up and running again.

      Delete
  40. AnonymousOctober 26, 2014 at 1:24 AM

    I can't get the old heating element to come out of the housing. There is a brass colored clip of some kind about halfway back on the interior right side of the housing that seems to be holding the element in place. I can barely reach it with a screwdriver but can't get it to release. Any suggestions?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisNovember 4, 2014 at 4:02 AM

      No, not sure. My model did not have that clip you are making reference to. Sorry.

      Delete
  41. AnonymousNovember 11, 2014 at 3:02 PM

    Very helpful article, thank you. My 90 series dryer only stays on if I keep the start button pushed in; even then it does not heat; also it does not activate the factory test mode (no beep). What does that indicate? What can I do to activate factory test mode? Or what diagnostic test(s) should I perform?

    Prad

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisNovember 11, 2014 at 3:35 PM

      For one your start button is in need of replacement. The components that hold it in the closed position apparently are defective. Have you ran the preliminary tests that I have outlined already in the article above, first?

      Delete
  42. JeffDecember 14, 2014 at 8:55 PM

    Any tricks to realign the entire heating casing when putting it back together? I can't get it to fit snuggly into the opening. I know it's working, but the misalignment prevents all the heat from getting into the drier. Any ideas? Thanks much, Jeff

    ReplyDelete
  43. GDDecember 30, 2014 at 4:27 PM

    Hi Chris, I have a series 90 gas dryer that the heat turns off when it warms up. If I let it sit for an hour or more, the flame will come back on. Once warmed up, the starter glows, but no gas flow. There is a rattle sound when it glows and no gas. When cool, there is no rattle sound and the gas flows. I checked the heat limiter with the ohm meter when warm and it checked out okay. Did not bother to check the fuse, since the unit will work when cool. Any suggestions what I should be looking for?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisDecember 30, 2014 at 6:46 PM

      Not sure if you will get this message because you left a post comment as opposed to emailing me your question. I have no email address for you to contact. Hopefully, you are reading this 'post reply'. I am not familiar with the gas dryers unfortunately.

      Delete
  44. laptopgirlJanuary 3, 2015 at 6:24 PM

    Hi Chris,
    We have this same dryer, and am helping my husband to troubleshoot;
    its running, without heat.
    Hubby recently changed the wiring in our home, and am wondering, could that have caused
    any problems??
    Thank you!
    Deb

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisJanuary 3, 2015 at 8:08 PM

      See email. Sent to your account associated with blogger

      Delete
  45. UnknownJanuary 28, 2015 at 9:05 PM

    Hi Chris, I have the Kenmore Series 90. The heating element was changed in March 2013. Last March no heat so the fuses were replaced, twice in three days….Here we are again, failed on Sunday night. Three fuses were changed on Monday, one load, no heat. I am beyond frustrated. New duct work, airflow is strong. Repairman coming up with all sorts of reasons that don't apply. Am told the machines are great and not to replace. They aren't so great if they don;t work. Any ideas…..

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisJanuary 29, 2015 at 12:24 AM

      This comment has been removed by the author.

      Delete
    2. ChrisJanuary 29, 2015 at 12:31 AM

      As I have said a thousand times to many others, I have no way of knowing if you will ever receive my response to your question when leaving a post comment such as this as opposed to emailing me so that I have direct comms with you. There is a page label at the top of this site that reads "Need answers to an issue: Please Read" Once navigating to that page it explains the issue.

      Although, I respond to every 'post comment' here there is a high probability that the poster will never receive my reply, unless they check that 'receive responses' box when posting.

      Delete
  46. UnknownMay 5, 2015 at 8:13 PM

    Thanks so much!!! I didn't get an ohms reading on the actual coils.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisMay 5, 2015 at 8:33 PM

      I hope you get this response. Many do not because they forget to check the 'notify me' box. I really wish you would have emailed me instead.

      "no ohm reading on the coil"

      If you have continuity across the leads verifying your meter is working properly and no ohm reading through the coil, then your coil has a broken segment in it somewhere and the coil is in need of replacing.

      Delete
  47. GuitarToneHoundJune 11, 2015 at 7:54 PM

    Hi Chris, excellent info here. I have a question. I had the exact same malfunction (thermal cutoff) on the exact same Kenmore dryer, and I used your tutorial to fix it. While fixing it, I also took the time to make sure the vent and hose were clear. The problem is, that new cutoff blew again after about 4 or 5 loads, and now I'm without heat again. I ordered a new one, but I'm wondering if I just got a bad cutoff or if there's something else wrong. The heating element reads 10.1 on the ohmmeter and has continuity, so I don't think that's it. Is there anything else I should troubleshoot before installing the new cutoff? Thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisJune 12, 2015 at 12:22 AM

      Have you checked to ensure that your interior exhaust duct 'inside the dryer' is clear? How about the entire run -duct work- all the way to the exterior of your residence? I understand you said that you made sure the vent and hose there at the dryer were clear but try to check the entire duct run and take a peek into the dryer exhaust from the rear of the dryer.

      It is not uncommon for duct work to become almost completely clogged with problematic clogs every 5-6 years or so. Especially if there is a droop in your line somewhere underneath the house. Needs to be hanging from joists almost as horizontally and as straight as possible.

      Now then- all that out of the way. If you have checked same. It very well could be that you have found a 'faulty' cutoff. Those things are made by the cheapest bidder..so it could be that you have gotten a lemon. It does happen. I have had it happen on occasion myself.

      DID you replace the hi-limit thermostat there on the side of your heating element housing whenever you replaced the cutoff?

      I would still go with ventilation being the culprit. Do you use dryer sheets in the dryer a lot? These are known to put a coating on the filter which prevents sufficient air flow, thus allowing the interior of the drum to reach high temps that would throw the thermal cutoff of the element I suppose.

      Delete
    2. GuitarToneHoundJune 12, 2015 at 7:14 AM

      Thanks for the quick reply, Chris. I'll double check the dryer exhaust and the duct again. I thought it was sufficiently cleared last time, but this time I'll really get in there and clean it up to at least eliminate that variable from the equation. I did replace bother the thermal cutoff and high limit thermostat, as you can only buy them together anyway. I also made sure to order the official Whirlpool parts this time. I'm not sure if there's a quality difference, but the last set was a generic version.

      Delete
    3. ChrisJune 12, 2015 at 12:38 PM

      "Quick reply" - you are welcome. Just glad you checked the 'notify me' box, most people never get my response because they do not.

      So you've replaced both sensors - name brand-, checked ductwork. hmm..I hate to play a game of cat and mouse but I am wondering if the moisture sensor which is located near the dryer filter housing - just underneath the bottom of the door- could possibly be the culprit?

      Reason I say this is because its a normally closed sensor that opens the electrical control circuit when it no longer senses 'a hint of moisture' leaving the drum through the exhaust air. If this one was faulty and the 'normally closed' functionality of the contacts were indeed welded 'closed' permanently I suppose the dryer could continue to heat indefinitely.

      In doing so, the heating element arena would get too hot and thus kick that thermal overload sensor.

      Not sure how one could check those type sensors to ascertain whether they are working properly or not. I did have one go bad on my dryer and discovered that to be the culprit. However, my issue was reversed - I lost the control circuit and dryer would not start because that sensor's internal electrical contacts were 'stuck open'.

      Ensuring ventilation 'checks good'....that sensor would def be my next spot of checking

      ~chris

      Delete
  48. UnknownJune 18, 2015 at 9:04 PM

    Hello Chris,
    I am about to change my thermal cut off switch for the second time in less than a year. Is it normal for them to need to be changes so often? FYI, my basement is very wet ( which is where my dryer is) and I was wondering if that may be causing my trouble?
    Thanks for your help,
    Megan

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisJune 18, 2015 at 10:43 PM

      No that is not normal. They should last for years. Sounds like you have an issue that is creating that. They are just doing their job if there is some other issue that would allow the dryer element to run beyond what's needed to remove tub moisture.

      Whether or not the wetness of your concrete floor is the culprit. If the ambient temp in there is really low and damp, yes that could be the cause. It might be enough humidity in the air to possibly keep the moisture sensor damp. This would allow the dryer element to run longer and in doing so, overheating would occur.

      When that happens, the thermal cutoff fuse is just doing its job.

      Please go through this.
      Have you checked to ensure that your interior exhaust duct 'inside the dryer' is clear? How about the entire run -duct work- all the way to the exterior of your residence? I understand you said that you made sure the vent and hose there at the dryer were clear but try to check the entire duct run and take a peek into the dryer exhaust from the rear of the dryer.

      It is not uncommon for duct work to become almost completely clogged with problematic clogs every 5-6 years or so. Especially if there is a droop in your line somewhere underneath the house. Needs to be hanging from joists almost as horizontally and as straight as possible.

      Now then- all that out of the way. If you have checked same. It very well could be that you have found a 'faulty' cutoff. Those things are made by the cheapest bidder..so it could be that you have gotten a lemon. It does happen. I have had it happen on occasion myself.

      DID you replace the hi-limit thermostat there on the side of your heating element housing whenever you replaced the cutoff?

      I would still go with ventilation being the culprit. Do you use dryer sheets in the dryer a lot? These are known to put a coating on the filter which prevents sufficient air flow, thus allowing the interior of the drum to reach high temps that would throw the thermal cutoff of the element I suppose.

      Delete
    2. UnknownJune 22, 2015 at 8:10 PM

      My husband cleaned out the dryer and hose about a month ago of lint. Each time we replaced the cut off valve it came in a set pack with the thermostat so we changed it even thought that's never been the problem. We did get a de-humidifier and set it up next to the dryer so hopefully that'll help.
      Since putting on the new valve a few days ago it has been heating up but turning off after 40 minutes or so.

      Delete
    3. ChrisJune 22, 2015 at 9:29 PM

      It is normal during any/all heating cycles for an 'off and on' functionality of the heating element. Perfectly normal.

      Delete
  49. UnknownAugust 17, 2015 at 8:35 PM

    Great post, thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisAugust 23, 2015 at 2:48 PM

      You're welcome Neal, hope you found it helpful.

      Delete
  50. TimAugust 23, 2015 at 11:26 AM

    Replaced bad motor, now when the starter switch is depressed, the timer comes on for about 5 to 10 seconds and stops. No movement.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisAugust 23, 2015 at 2:51 PM

      Need to monitor voltage feed input to that timer switch while you turn the dryer on and while its running. Ensure you have voltage input there when the switch cuts out. If not, then you will have to pull out your schematic drawing and troubleshoot back down the wiring harness.

      Delete
  51. MarkSeptember 6, 2015 at 3:52 AM

    Great tips, thank so much

    ReplyDelete
  52. UnknownSeptember 9, 2015 at 7:17 PM

    I have a kenmore dryer , it's the same kind as the one in your blog. It doesn't heat so I did all the rest replace the sensors because of them wasn't giving any ready. For some reason It still doesn't heat. And I checked the heating element nothing is broken export the flat metal that holds the connection which I don't think is the problem!!
    What do you think brother??

    Sent from Michel Descollines

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisSeptember 10, 2015 at 3:58 AM

      Answered your email. Thanks for actually reading the portion at the top of the page regarding contacting me via email if you should actually desire a response. SOOO many fail to read that page for some odd reason.

      Anyway- a response has been sent.

      Delete
  53. UnknownSeptember 9, 2015 at 7:19 PM

    I have a kenmore dryer , it's the same kind as the one in your blog. It doesn't heat so I did all the rest replace the sensors because of them wasn't giving any ready. For some reason It still doesn't heat. And I checked the heating element nothing is broken export the flat metal that holds the connection which I don't think is the problem!!
    What do you think brother??

    Sent from Michel Descollines

    ReplyDelete
  54. BrianCOctober 12, 2015 at 11:17 PM

    Thanks for this great walk through! (as well as the post about replacing the heating element)
    I'm still a new homeowner (about 9 months now) and I didn't have a clue what to do, when our dryer stopped working. Now I've disassembled, located the cause (heating element coil snapped) and I've ordered the parts. By Wednesday this week we should have a working dryer again!
    Thanks for the awesome tutorials!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisOctober 13, 2015 at 12:08 AM

      You are welcome Brian. I am so glad that you have found my blog to be extra helpful....that is the exact reason some cold winter of the yesteryear that I decided to sit down with a cup of coffee and write these blog posts. To help others and make a little bit of money

      Delete
  55. AnonymousOctober 26, 2015 at 7:15 PM

    Thanks for the picture showing that the connection of the wires didn't matter... i labeled the wires, but couldn't read my writing :P

    Great step by step guide - the hardest part was finding wire to redo the connection from the thermostat to the high cutoff. Mine burnt out... it seems no one sells that wire in other than 500 foot increments and the appliance stores only had 14 gauge, but mine was listed as 12 gauge and didn't want to risk it.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisOctober 26, 2015 at 8:06 PM

      You can purchase 12 gauge stranded wire from Lowes or Home Depot in 1' increments, all day long. Just get stranded #12 with THHN insulation (that is Thermoplastic Heat Resistant Nylon) and has a high temperature range. Will be fine in dryer housing. The temp resistance of THHN is upwards of 178 degrees F, will be fine as long as you don't allow any of the wiring to lie against the heating element.

      If you can't find #12, step up to a #10 guage wire. I would suggest that anyway. #10 is good for up to 30 amps.

      Delete
  56. AnonymousNovember 2, 2015 at 2:17 PM

    Chris, thanks for the excellent step-by-step... Heating element went bad after 22-23years and with your assistance I was able to effect the repairs. Can't thank you enough...and glady contributed to your fund. All the best!!

    ReplyDelete
  57. UnknownNovember 2, 2015 at 6:57 PM

    Hello Chris. Wow AWESOME write up. I read the entire thread. Here is my problem. Kenmore Series 90 Super Duty dryer. Runs perfectly fine. Heats up. Then 20 minutes later for no reason shuts off. After shutting off it will not start, buzz, blink, NOTHING. It just "quits" and leaves the timer at like 20 minutes to go. After sitting for maybe 30 minutes? Runs again no sweat for another 20 minutes. Then quits. Cycle repeats. I can't get it to run longer than like 20 minutes or so tops. Then it stalls. And 20 minutes later starts back like it never stopped. After reading your write up it sounds to me like a venting issue / over heating problem. What do you think?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisNovember 2, 2015 at 7:32 PM

      Sounds like your timer is defective. There might be an internal 'contact break' at those locations on the timer switch. After ticking through those positions, electrical continuity is made again and the dryer once again comes on. I would almost be willing to bet that the issue is with the timer switch.

      Delete
  58. WendyFebruary 19, 2016 at 2:49 PM

    Super helpful, thanks!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisFebruary 20, 2016 at 1:50 PM

      Superb! Glad it helped you Wendy. Thanks for your comment.

      Delete
  59. AnonymousMarch 3, 2016 at 10:42 AM

    My kenmore 90 series is a gas dryer. It starts fine but after about 1 minute the fire goes out and the fan is just moving ambient air. I assume some sensor is malfunctioning and shutting off the gas flow. Can you tell me which part to replace?
    thanks, Bruce

    ReplyDelete
  60. UnknownDecember 15, 2019 at 9:01 AM

    I bought this house with washer and dryer 2 years ago,6 months later i had to replace heating elements,everything went according to plan.then it stop heating,turned to u-tube for troubleshooting,i saved money for 6 more months taking thermal fuse off,tapping on solid surface about 3 times and put back on,i was good for 3 months,take off,tap on solid surface put back on,did this a bunch of times then once it got hot,it wouldn't work nomore,prices from sears is 40,50 to 60 bucks,i took off 3398671,replaced it with part 3977393,its working so far,dont know heating limit on the one i took off,i tried google and kept sending me to Amazon. 3977393 holds 325,any info would be appreciated,im keeping close eye on it,thanks in advance Dwain

    ReplyDelete
  61. Newbee4705April 2, 2021 at 12:14 PM

    Hi Chris, Excellent step by step guide. It is so well written I didn't even have to go to YOUTUBE to find visuals to better understand what needed to be done. Actually this is one of the best do-it yourself guides I've read. Anyways my question is if you had to buy another replacement dryer which model would YOU select?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. ChrisApril 4, 2021 at 8:25 AM

      Thank you. I can't recommend any particular dryer. The last dryer we purchased, my wife had done extensive research and Samsung was at the top of the list. We ended up purchasing a DV48H7 model. It works...it serves us...but it rattles and has since the day we've bought it. I've attempted to locate the source of the rattle, which goes away once the dryer is warm, but have been unable to do so. Although, at that time, Samsung came with high review, I'm not certain where they stand currently. That said, even if I knew they stood at the so called, "Top of the List" right now, I can't say that I'd recommend. Reason being, so much of what is made today is done so at the very cheapest of ways....they desire for most things to just be disposable, yet they attach a tremendous gouge ticket to them. I'm sorry I can't be of more help to you

      Delete

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Chris

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