Friday, November 19, 2010

Kenmore 90 Series, Model 110 Washing Machine Water Inlet Valve Replacement

If you have recently discovered that your Kenmore Washing Machine Model 110, 90 Series- Standard or High Capacity is leaking water inside of your tub more than likely your washer's water inlet solenoid valve is faulty and needs replacing.

As for me, I began hearing a drip at night when all was quiet and I was preparing to retire for the evening.  I opened the washer's door and noticed the plastic water distribution cowl had water dripping from it.  I knew the water inlet solenoid valve had to be the culprit.


The tools you will need for the job...
-standard screwdriver
-phillips screwdriver
-channel lock pliers
-don't forget the 1/4" nut runner- it just makes the job easier.
















First things- unplug the washing machine's power cord.


Next you will need to remove the control panel's end covers. This is very simple, you simply grasp the top portion of the cover as seen in the picture below. Pull the top rear portion up and towards you, just be easy and you will be fine. You do not need any tools for this. These covers snap right off and expose the screws which need to be removed.

There are two screws, one located at each end of the control panel. (see note on photo). Remove these two screws in order to remove the washer's exterior cabinet.


Once the screws are removed grasp the control panel by each end....pull towards you and then upwards to dislodge the locking dawgs in the cabinet.  As your gently pulling the control panel towards you it will hit a stop, at this time you can just rotate the bottom upwards.

Carefully rotate the control panel rearward.


The top will stay in the position (pictured below) - just completely invert the control panel and you will be able to feel the locking mechanism that will hold the panel in that position. Once you feel its secure, it should stay.



Now grab your stout and sturdy standard screwdriver.  This will allow you to remove the washer's housing.  Insert the screwdriver down into the tensioner mechanism by placing the tip in the front valley of the tensioner.  Push down...and move the handle rearward all in one motion. You will feel the tensioner being released.


Remove these two tension springs (one on each side) and simply reinstall them in the reverse manner. (To install:  after placing back into their appropriate location, simply use the screwdriver and push them downwards until they snap back in place.  That simple) 
Do not forget to unplug this harness connection here before attempting to move the cabinet. It might require a little assistance with the use of a screwdriver. Just be careful and take your time so that you don't break the little plastic connector's locking tab mechanism.


Carefully grab both corners of the cabinet and pull it towards you.  Just be careful at this point that the bottom front of the cabinet doesn't 'fall off' tabs which would allow the housing to strike your nice hardwood flooring perhaps. Just be cognizant of this and you'll be fine.

Just rock it right towards you.  It will pivot.  Ensure it isn't caught on anything and remove it completely.



Now turn the water valves off...remember the left valve is the hot valve and the right valves are always the cold valves, at least in North America anyway.  Only three things anyone really needs to know in order to be a plumber - hot is on the left, cold is on the right and poop doesn't run up hill-. As long as you can retain that, you'll be fine in the plumbing department.  lol

Please disregard the nastiness inside my valve control box, it is not readily accessible during our routine dusting days.

After having turned both water valves off, remove the hoses from the water inlet valve housing. You may need to use some channel lock pliers to loosen the fitting, just use caution.  (If you use the pliers to snug the fittings back onto the new valve just go easy.  SNUG...it doesn't have to be overly tight...there are rubber washers inside the fitting to ensure water doesn't leak.  So do not overtighten those connections. Just snug will do!)

Remove this single screw which is holding valve body to the panel. Nice to have a nut runner to prevent slipping and such in tight quarters.


Simply place water inlet hoses inside of washer's tub to allow water to run into tub instead of leaking on the floor. 

Notice the position of the water inlet valve (blue in color with solenoids attached).  The terminal with the white wire is for the cold and the one with the red wire is for the hot portion of the valve. Just remember the red lead goes back on the bottom.




Here is the new solenoid controlled water inlet valve.

Install hose on new one and ensure the hose clamp is securely in place, landing behind the barbed end of the hose inlet.

Install screw to hold valve housing in place.



Now is a good time to take a peek around inside of the washing machine and check out the other components. I discovered a rusty, practically useless hose clamp on my washer's plastic, water distribution cowl which i replaced.

Next slide cabinet back into place:

The front of the cabinet must slide underneath the frame's lower lip, however the sides of the cabinet sit on top of the frame's sides. The frame's metal protrusions pointing upwards fit into slots in the cabinet's bottom. Just ensure they find their proper home and replace other components in reverse order. The pic below is looking inside of the cabinet towards front.

The culprit of the continuous water leak dripping water inside of my washing machine's tub. This valve however, has served it's time, for it has been in my Kenmore 90 Series, Model 110 high capacity washing machine for over 10+ years.


Valve replaced, water turned back on and the washing machine assembled.  25-35 minute job.  Certainly something one can do in an evening.


If this picture tutorial was beneficial, please let me know by donating.  It takes a lot of time, effort and energies to create the blog for others to benefit from.

~chris


15 comments:

  1. Thank you for posting this Chris. SUPER helpful!!

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    1. you are welcome Hoyer, glad it served you well.

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  2. If you have discovered this blog to be helpful and the posts included therein, please consider donating. It took me hours to compose this blog for individuals to benefit from.

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  3. What is the part number of the replacement valve? I have been searching for a while, and have several different part numbers and no definitive answer to which I actually need. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

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    Replies
    1. J, i wish i knew the exact model number to assist you. I am sure you have already searched using your model number specifically and any other numbers located on the nameplate (namesticker) of your washing machine. I purchase all of my parts through appliancezone.com. Perhaps you could call and ask to speak to some tech rep there that could help you get the right part.

      Chris

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  4. Brilliant. Many thanks!

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  5. I'm really glad you took the time to make this tutorial. It was crazy helpful when I suddenly had no hot water to my washing machine. Very detailed and excellent pictures. I sincerely appreciate it.

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    Replies
    1. BG you are welcome bro, I am glad you were able to first find the blog and that it was helpful..I enjoy receiving such accolades in reply, for it lets me know that my energies were not in vain.

      Chris

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  6. Thanks for your information on how to replace the water inlet valve. I have an 80 series Kenmore washer. So I did the replacement, yet the same problem persists, and that is a trickle of cold water, a good flow of hot water, and no warm water. Could it be the wiring that connects to the valve?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sounds like a defective valve. That new valve should be 'closed' whenever there is not any electrical signal being sent to it. Has to be defective.

      Delete
  7. Thanks for your information on how to replace the water inlet valve. I have an 80 series Kenmore washer. So I did the replacement, yet the same problem persists, and that is a trickle of cold water, a good flow of hot water, and no warm water. Could it be the wiring that connects to the valve?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sounds like a defective valve. That new valve should be 'closed' whenever there is not any electrical signal being sent to it. Has to be defective.

      Delete
  8. Over the top on your help to open up my unit, but my leak is under the tub in the very middle of it, it’s blackish drips, like agitator main shaft seal ? Oh dear, what should I do for this repair? Please send helpful information, thank you

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    Replies
    1. Yep, sounds like pump failure or shaft seal. What did you ever discover, it's been awhile and I just noticed this post 'awaiting moderation' section of the blog

      Delete